Arriving In Albuquerque

The wind gods were smiling on us again today, coming from the west and blowing a solid 20-25 mph.  The first 30 miles were on Route 66 and the riding was spectacular.  Gorgeous weather, magnificent scenery and minimal traffic.

Early morning on Route 66

As we moved toward A-Town, the mesas started taking on more of a mountainous look with more peaks and fewer plateaus.

After a tough 5 mile climb through a construction zone no less,  I started my descent into Albuquerque and what a descent it was, reaching a top speed of 41.5 mph.  I found myself crossing the Rio Grande in no time.

Today was a special day and I had every reason to get to Albuquerque as expeditiously as possible, which I did (78 miles in 4 hours, total time).  Diana had flown into Albuquerque this morning and I actually arrived at the hotel 15 minutes after she checked in!  We took a trip into Old Town and had lunch at a quaint little place then visited the Albuquerque Museum.

Cafe Casa de Ruiz

A couple more looks at Old Town,

 

One last note, our dear friend, Lori, received great news today on the medical front.  We are relieved and happy.  Put this one in the 'W' column for Lori, Sreve and their family.

Total Miles:   78           Total Vertical Climb:    2600 ft.          

Goin' To Grants

We are now on Mountain Standard Time so we "lost" an hour yesterday.  Oh well. easy come, easy go.

I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog that the coyote blood didn't quite work.  At our last rest stop, I was doing my routine tire check and actually removed a piece of wire that had penetrated my rear tire but had not yet entered the tube.  Got my trusty tweezers out and surgically removed the offending debris (as I have done already on several other occasions).  Then I checked the front tire only to find that it was very low on air.  Since it wasn't flat, I opted to pump it back up and see what happens.  The tire held for the last 25 miles but by evening it was low again, so I changed the tube.  Total flat count for the group yesterday was 19.

The SW wind was blowing quite strongly today at 30-35 mph, gusting to 60 mph in Gallup.  It had a beneficial effect at the outset but, as the ride wore on, a dangerous crosswind was developing.  On a couple of occasions, riders had to disengage from their pedals in anticipation of being blown over.  Exciting.

Early in the ride we began paralleling the Red Rock State Park.  The Mess of Mesas (my term) to the north were with us for most of the day.

Another feature of today's ride was crossing the Continental Divide.  We climbed to an elevation of 7275 ft. but it was long and continuous and not the steep type of grade that we had encountered in the Arizona mountains.  The geographical significance of the Continental Divide is that it is the north-south line from which rivers flow east toward the Atlantic Ocean or west toward the Pacific.

Today was our first opportunity to spend a significant amount of time (50 miles) on Route 66.   Since Interstate 40 literally parallels Route 66, only locals traveling short distances use the historic highway.  For we cyclists, it was riding Nirvana.  We had the road to ourselves.

Note the highway on the right, I-40.  Also note the angle of our safety flags which is the result of the powerful crosswinds.

Grants, NM has a significance in our family history dating back to 1946.  At that time, my future parents were driving from Michigan to Long Beach, CA, along with my mother's younger sister, Eileen.  Hey, it was 1946 and my parents weren't married yet so we had to have some sense of propriety.  Anyway, my father's 1936 Ford experienced one of its more serious mechanical failures (of many), so they spent a good deal of time scrounging up money and waiting for the necessary repairs to be made.  To this day, my mother can recount this story in detail and with (now) fond memories.

Modern day Grants has fared better than most of the other walking-dead towns along Route 66.  There appears to be more vitality in their business section although the mines (uranium and gold) closed up in the 1980's.

The following photos were taken as we approached Grants.

Total Miles:   70              Total Vertical Climb:   1800 ft. 

New Mexico: Second State Line Crossing

Got under way today with a nice WSW wind helping us along.  After 13 miles, we encountered road construction on I-40.  The eastbound (our side) was closed for major bridge repair on two overpasses.  After some conferring with the highway construction super, we were allowed to travel on the closed side of the Interstate as long as we were willing to carry our bikes across the two bridge construction sites.  Having no other option, we crossed the construction sites.

I took several photos from my moving bike today so here goes:

Note the headlight of one of the many approaching trains.

This corner of northeastern Arizona does not look like the most hospitable place to eke out an existence.

One of many mesas

The following three photos are of some interesting rock formations as we approached the New Mexico border.

Then, finally

Total Miles:  89           Total Vertical Climb:  3200 ft.

Heading To Holbrook

After a much welcome rest day in Flagstaff, we got back on the road today.  While in Flagstaff, we were able to view the solar eclipse yesterday and, since no one appears to be blind today, we must have been using the appropriate eye protection.  Yesterday was also bike cleaning day, since we collectively picked up half the Mojave and Sonora deserts on our drive trains.

We stayed at one of the larger hotels in Flagstaff (six floors, no less).  I mention this only because one would think that we riders would be lost in the anonymity that these hotels generally afford to their guests.  However, on the contrary, we were treated like celebrities (alright, mildly interesting people) with other guests approaching us on the elevators and in the lobby even when we were dressed in our civvies.  This actually has been a recurring theme wherever we have gone.  People are intrigued by the outrageousness of the idea.  I had a car full of tourists approach me today in Winslow and the driver actually stopped on a major highway while he asked me many questions about the ride.

Before getting into today's ride, I would also like to report that of the several local people in Flagstaff and Prescott to whom I asked the question "How do you like living here?", they replied, to a person, "I love it!".  Not so sure that I would get such an effusive response if I surveyed people in my part of the world.  What both of these towns have in common is nice weather, universities, significant natural beauty, and extensive outdoor activities.  Great combination. 

As we rode out of Flagstaff, we had another cool, invigorating start to the day.  The high plateau brings with it clean, fresh air and the cattle seem to like it as well.  The outlying mountains were now very distant.  Also had a decent tailwind and a descent from 6900 ft to roughly 5000 ft.  Things were definitely looking up.  We averaged over 20 mph for the for the first 50 miles.

Due to the poor condition of US 66 in many places, we rode most of the day on I-40.  Again, this was with the approval of the Arizona Highway Patrol.  Fortunately, we were able to rejoin US 66 in Winslow for a stretch. 

This historic highway has special significance to me because, as a young lad in the 1950's and 60's, I made many a cross country trip with my parents.  This was when the Interstates were only a twinkle in the eye of President Eisenhower;  Congress passed the Interstate Highway Act in 1956.  For those old enough to remember, Burma Shave signs and Whiting Brothers gas stations peppered the landscape along with Indian trading posts.  Enough nostalgia.

We spent virtually the entire day paralleling the railroad tracks.  The railroad here  was originally known as the Southern Pacific but now goes by BNSF (Burlington Northern Santa Fe).  What was remarkable was that we could hear the powerful roar of  four diesel locomotives pulling freight trains that seemed to have no end.  As the cars rumbled by, probably 500 ft away, you could hear the drone of the railcar wheels and an occasional wail of the air horns.  It brought to life how big a deal the railroad must have been to the development of this part of the country.  Like smelling the ponderosa pines for hours in the Coconino National Forest, this is something that you can't experience from a car.

A ride through Winslow wouldn't be complete without Standin' On The Corner,

Yes, that would be the flatbed Ford

One other stop in Winslow was the La Posada.  This is a historic hotel that counts presidents, royalty and Hollywood stars among its illustrious guests.  Diana and I stayed there in 2007 but they haven't named a room after us yet but I understand that it's in the works.  This place was built by Fred Harvey, who working hand in hand with the Southern Pacific Railroad built and managed many other resort properties throughout the Southwest.  This was when train travel was king.

  La Posada: Grandeur from a bygone era

Final word on Winslow: If not for the BNSF and the Eagles, I fear Winslow would be only another footnote to US 66 history.  It is still struggling not to join the long list of small western towns who fell as casualties to Interstate 40.

 

At our daily planning meeting tonight, it came out that 15 of our 22 riders had flats today, 2 riders had 4 each, 30 flats in total.  Tom (CA) and I offered roadside aid to 4 riders.  I escaped unscathed.  It must be the coyote blood that I put on my rear forks.



Total Miles:   94              Total Vertical Climb:  3100 ft.

Sedona / Flagstaff

The higher elevations are marked by cooler evening and early morning temperatures and today was no exception.  Some of the riders from southern parts of the country wore arm warmers but we Midwesterners would consider that to be weenie-like behavior.

During the first hour of today's ride, I was riding by myself (by design).  The cool morning air hitting my face as I silently moved through the Arizona high country, surrounded by mountains, made for a spiritual experience.  This has been the realization of a dream yet it's so much more than that.   We never know what the future holds for us so when these special moments come along, I realize how incredibly fortunate I am.

It also occurred to me that seeing this natural beauty by bicycle has clear advantages of viewing it from a car (unless you're a passenger) and even by walking because you have to always watch where you're stepping.  On a bike, you can take in the sights, sounds and smells at a nice pace, stopping whenever you want.  And you don't need to always focus your every attention on the road in front of you.  Yes, there is that physical challenge part but like mountain climbing / trekking, it's about earning it.   

My nephew, Joshua, asked me about wildlife in Arizona.  The short answer is that we haven't seen much and what we have seen has mainly been roadkill, particularly coyotes and rattlesnakes.  We have seen some small lizards, chipmunks, rabbits and scavenger birds like ravens and vultures.  There have also been plenty of road signs alerting drivers to watch out for deer.  In the high country, there is a healthy number of mountain lions. 

Climbing was once again the order of the day and we began a moderate ascent almost immediately after leaving Cottonwood.  After clearing a rise, we came into Red Rock country which is also where Sedona is located. 

Entering Red Rock country

Outskirts of Sedona

Diana and I hiked this area in 2007

Taken from "downtown" Sedona

Oak Creek Canyon area, just north of Sedona

We continued into the Coconino National Forest.  There is a striking contrast of stark, massive red rock formations with their bases heavily forested by pine trees.

From the pass at Coconino National Forest

Three of the many switchbacks that we rode to reach Coconino Pass

Wrapping up an incredible first week.

Total Miles:  47           Total Vertical Climb:   6700 ft.

Tomorrow (Sunday, May 20th) is our first non-riding day.  I plan to get a massage today as do many of my colleagues.

Mingus Mountain

Today was another climbing day.  Our route took us to Mingus Pass where we then descended into Cottonwood, AZ.  The road was steep, narrow and very twisty.

We are heading over the mountains on the horizon.  As you can see, we are sharing the road with the cars and trucks, in a very cozy fashion.

At Mingus Pass

Beautiful vistas with mountains in the distance toward Flagstaff

Road descending down the pass.  My hands became quite sore from fanning the brakes the entire way down in order to negotiate the hairpin turns.  Due to the complete lack of a shoulder, we were advised to "take the lane" to the consternation of some of the motorists.  Oh, well.

There was a potentially very serious incident that occurred today on Mingus Mountain.  As we were ascending, a car coming the opposite direction lost control, crossed the center line, spun completely and plunged off our side of the road.  After rolling, it came to a stop some thirty feet below the edge of the road, wedged between a tree and some large rocks.  When it spun to our side of the road, the car passed between two of our riders who were riding less than 100 ft. apart.  Miraculously, none of us were hurt nor was the driver of the car, although he could very well have been in a state of shock.

Before we could get down to the wreckage, the driver worked himself free.  He was driving a 1988 Porsche 944, no airbags.

  Almost unbelievably, this is the driver (in the foreground), minutes after the crash.

Continuing on our way to Cottonwood, we had lunch and did a little sightseeing in the historic mining town of Jerome.

Nick (UK), Mike K., Chuck (MO), John (UK), Mike F. (CA), Rich (OH)

Alice's Restaurant  (Jerome, AZ)

Total Miles:  44        Total Vertical Climb:  4300 ft.

Up To Prescott

Before posting the details of today's ride, I would like to thank all of you who have taken the time to post comments on my blogsite.  It's always great to hear from you especially during this adventure.  Unfortunately, I don't really have time to individually respond to you.  A typical day begins with rising at 5:00am, loading up the bike saddle pack, water bottles, Camelback, energy food for the first two hours, Endurolytes, dressing for desert survival, slathering on sunscreen, SPF50 lip balm and Chamois Butt'r (don't ask), pumping up bike tires to 110 psi, having breakfast and getting on the road.  I have been hand washing my desert outfit every day and it's looking worse for the wear. 

Also, by way of explanation, the "Total Vertical Climb" information that I have been mentioning every day is NOT the net elevation game but, rather, the total distance traveled uphill.  It's derived from Garmin / GPS data which is provided by CrossRoads and is a good measure of degree of effort required.

Finally, for those of you who have enjoyed the great photos from previous trips that Diana and I have taken, you must be sorely disappointed with my blogsite photos.  My only explanation is that my friend, Jim J., is not with me to work his photographic magic. 

The ride to Prescott (pronounced pres-cut by the locals) was not as long as our previous rides.  However, it was marked with beautiful vistas of the flowering desert and a minimal amount of vehicular traffic. 

  

Today also had all the climbing that you could want (if that's the right word).  We ascended our first mountain pass, Yarnell, followed by another just outside of Prescott, which reached 6,100 ft.  The "false summits" tested our resolve as they only masked yet more switchbacks.

The downhills were frequently exhilarating as we whipped through hairpin turns with the greatest of faith in our high pressure tires and brakes.  I topped out at 39.2 mph on one run.  Yowee!!

Temps today moderated to 90 degrees but we were still pouring water all over ourselves at every opportunity to offset the body heat generated by the climbing.

Had a chance to check out Prescott this evening.  It's a rather quaint place.  There are numerous historical markers harking back to its 1880's origins as well as an eclectic population due to the presence of the university (kind of like Marquette).  There is also an abundance of outdoor adventure activities in the area. 

On a humorous note, Tony, the UK bloke who got banged up in the pace line crash yesterday, has been regularly Skyping his wife back in the UK.  When they connected last night, Tony tried to keep his head turned during the conversation so as to hide the bandage on the side of his face.  Of course, being a woman, she immediately knew that  something was up and directed him to look into the camera.  How do they do it?

Total Miles:  60.   Total Vertical Climb:  7400 ft.